What I Loved About Riomaggiore In The Cinque Terre!

The colorful buildings, the rocky beaches, the picturesque harbor, the food and the amazing views. Or in a word–everything!

Riomaggiore is the southern-most of the 5 villages of the Cinque Terre (which translates as “five lands.”) These villages are incredible because they were literally hewn out of rock cliffs over a thousand years ago. They are filled with narrow, winding, streets with steep inclines called carruggi. Carrugi are found across the coastal towns in the Ligurian region of Italy.

From my apartment, you could go down many, many, stone stairs to to the harbor where the fishermen bring their boats in and out of the sea. From there, you can swim or sun on the rocks and jump into the water from a rock platform. You can also access the main road with shops and restaurants by going up many stairs in the opposite direction. Everything I needed was on this road–great restaurants, grocery stores, even a laundromat.

The beach was a short walk away–you guessed it, via many stairs both up and down–and it is your typical rocky Mediterranean beach. If you have not yet experienced these beaches, you may not think they look inviting, but they are surprisingly comfortable. I just considered the large, smooth rocks to be acupressure after a day of tough hiking!

I stayed in a 100+ year old apartment that is described in the rental ads as “Lovely Rustic by the Sea“. And every word of the description was completely accurate!! It is a perfect location with a wonderful view. You overlook the harbor, but the building is high enough that you aren’t bothered by noise. (Unless you count that rooster!) It is definitely the most rustic place I have ever stayed. The kitchen is essentially a hot plate station with a sink and mini-fridge built into a corner. The bathroom is a “wet bathroom” which means the entire tiny room becomes your shower, similar to the shower facilities on a boat. Straddling the toilet while showering was a bit strange, but hey, I can roll with it! The house is three stories with the entrance on the first floor, the 2 bedrooms on another, and the kitchen, bathroom, and balcony up one floor more. You catch the breeze from the sea through your windows and I was completely comfortable. This house is a good example of of slightly gritty travel, but I really enjoyed the authentic feeling of it!

The food across the Cinque Terre was outstanding. In Riomaggiore, choices ranged from chef tasting menus to take out cafés for your own sunset picnics. Rio Bistrot was my favorite on the higher end of that continuum. It is at the top of the port and has a really lovely view of the sunset. For take-out, Vinoteka is a wonderful café for wine and tapas. My first meal was a picnic dinner from there that I ate sitting on the rocks overlooking the water. Another nice, casual, sit-down restaurant is Osteria La Torpedine where I had delicious spaghetti ai frutti di mare.

I found Riomaggiore to be nothing short of magical. From the stillness in the early morning, to the brilliant blue of the sea, to the breathtaking sunsets, every moment was something to cherish. Honestly, the only drawback was the constant climbing of rocky, uneven, stairs. One might be 8″ high and the next one 18″. Not for the faint of knees, but these Leki Lhasa telescoping trekking poles will be your saving grace!

This definitely will not be my last last visit to Riomaggiore. I’ll be writing a Cinque Terre destination report with lots more detail, but in the meantime, I hope I have inspired you to visit this beautiful town! Please drop me a comment below!